Garage Fan Selection and Placement

However, I have no idea how to select a placement. Why would I choose ceiling mount vs wall mount? Like is there an "ideal" place to mount the fan? If wall mounted - high or low on the wall? Near a corner or in the middle of the wall? If ceiling mounted, near the center of the room? Corners? Wall centers?The fans you've referenced are fundamentally the same. I.e. the "ceiling" version still is designed to move air horizontally (as opposed to what we usually think of as a "ceiling" fan).

I would say that the choice of ceiling vs. wall mount is primarily going to be driven by the exact location you think the fan will be most useful, and the convenience of installation (e.g. where you already have existing wiring). It will have more to do with what's the best location to mount the fan, rather than any particular aspect of operation.

Also, I assume oscillating is "better" than fixed (again, the price is only marginally more)? Is just "better airflow"? Are there any downsides?Oscillation is a question of how you want to use the fan. An oscillating fan does a couple of things that a stationary fan does not:Bottom line on those two points: there's a reason the fans are offered in different configurations, and the reason is mainly because different users have different needs. You'll have to think about how the space is to be used, how you expect to use the fan, and what would be involved in installing the fan, and use that information to drive your decision. Within the four-option matrix (i.

e. the four combinations of oscillating or not and wall or ceiling mount), there is no best option overall. It just depends.As far as locating the fan, again that will depend on your specific need. If you want a stationary fan to blow on a particular spot, then a location at the right distance from that spot where the fan can be properly positioned would be best. If you just want to mix the air in the room, an oscillating fan positioned near a wall, or maybe up to 1/3rd of the width of the room (depending on how large the space actually is), might be better.At the end of the day, you might find that practical considerations related to where you have power and structure available for mounting are the primary factor.I note that in one comment, you mention that there is living space above. That could also be a consideration. It might be easier to control noise infiltrating the living space if you mount the fan on the wall rather than the ceiling. Assuming that's a concern, of course.Last gotcha - I have a door to an air conditioned house. Would keeping that door open while working (in a further attempt to cool the garage) be useful? If so, would it change the placement choice?Unless you plan to hang the fan directly in the doorway, and preferably on the cold side of the doorway, it's unlikely that the fan would help much with mixing the air conditioned air with the warm garage air.

On a broader note: it's important keep in mind what a fan can and cannot do. The fan is not going to change the temperature of the room. In fact, running the electric motor is going to increase the average temperature a hair.

What the fan can do is even out the hot spots in the room, if any (e.g. you are using welding equipment, or doing something else that generates heat, or maybe there's a spot in the room that gets a lot more sunlight), and can provide a breeze to aid in cooling a person's body, taking advantage of the body's own mechanisms for dealing with heat (i.e. sweating and dilating blood vessels).Even with a fan, if you're working and the room is hot, you're going to feel hot. Staying hydrated will be at least as important as any other consideration. If you really want to cool the room, you need something else that will actually change the temperature, rather than just your perception of it.For somewhere between the same price as the fan you're looking at and less than double that price, you could get a window-mount or portable A/C unit. At the higher end of that range, you could even get a dual-mode (i.e. heat pump) model that will heat the space in the winter if needed.At the lower of the scale, you also have the option of exhaust fans. Depending on the climate in your area and why the garage gets hot in the first place and whether you can provide an effective source of make-up air for one, an exhaust fan could be used to keep the space cool enough that a fan to actually move air in the space isn't needed, or at least would be a lot more effective.Don't get me wrong: fans that just move air around have their use. I find them especially useful for spaces where conditioning isn't even possible (e.

g. the space isn't even fully enclosed), as well as an accessory to be used in combination with conditioning methods (because it's always still helpful to mix the air in the room, conditioned or not). But if your primary complaint is just that the space is hot, a fan might not be the most cost-effective solution from a price/performance perspective, even taking into account the significantly reduced operating costs as compared to A/C

I would like to put a fan in a 2 car garage woodshop (it's getting awfully hot to work in in the summer). I was thinking something like this: The prices seem marginally more expensive for the bigger motor and the bigger blades, so perhaps a 1/3 HP 30" variety.

However, I have no idea how to select a placement. Why would I choose ceiling mount vs wall mount? Like is there an "ideal" place to mount the fan? If wall mounted - high or low on the wall? Near a corner or in the middle of the wall? If ceiling mounted, near the center of the room? Corners? Wall centers?

Also, I assume oscillating is "better" than fixed (again, the price is only marginally more)? Is just "better airflow"? Are there any downsides?

Last gotcha - I have a door to an air conditioned house. Would keeping that door open while working (in a further attempt to cool the garage) be useful? If so, would it change the placement choice?

Any tips would be appreciated!

·OTHER ANSWER:

I would like to put a fan in a 2 car garage woodshop (it's getting awfully hot to work in in the summer). I was thinking something like this: The prices seem marginally more expensive for the bigger motor and the bigger blades, so perhaps a 1/3 HP 30" variety.

However, I have no idea how to select a placement. Why would I choose ceiling mount vs wall mount? Like is there an "ideal" place to mount the fan? If wall mounted - high or low on the wall? Near a corner or in the middle of the wall? If ceiling mounted, near the center of the room? Corners? Wall centers?

Also, I assume oscillating is "better" than fixed (again, the price is only marginally more)? Is just "better airflow"? Are there any downsides?

Last gotcha - I have a door to an air conditioned house. Would keeping that door open while working (in a further attempt to cool the garage) be useful? If so, would it change the placement choice?

Any tips would be appreciated!

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Um from experience new 700c wheels have curve in the rim wall so the tire bead stay even at high pressure .but that nice vintage aray rim wall has no curve in the rime because it was not designed for high pressure tires . Old rims mostly was disigned for low pressure gumwall tire for a comfortable ride . In the bicycle world the old bouncy steel smooth tire 10 speed was considered a Cadillac because of its smooth ride.^,^1. Have any experiments been performed on the magnetic properties of neodymium at high pressure and temperature?Do not think that pure Nd is ferromagnetic (maybe it's antiferromagnetic?), so your question about the Curie temperature really applies to just certain ferromagnetic alloys of Nd. Not aware of any high-P studies on those ferromagnetic alloys offhand. I was a co-author of a paper that looked at the magnetic properties of the heavy lanthanides (which are ferromagnetic) under pressure, and we found that their Curie temperatures dropped with pressure at a $dT_c/dP$ rate of around -10 to -20 K/GPa (See High-pressure magnetic susceptibility experiments on the heavy lanthanides Gd, Tb, Dy, Ho, Er, and Tm). If Nd alloys have $T_c's$ which drop at similar rates, then I would not expect any magnetism in them at the pressure and temperature of the core-mantle boundary (140 GPa and 5000 C)2. 3 ton tempstar heatpump with a 3.5 ton airhandler on a 45 deg, day what should the low and high pressure be?I very much doubt a setting done by a technician charging a system such as yours. First, you cannot do that with two gages. Its not even possible, and second there is NO exact pressure setting for a given system. It depends on air pressure, humidity and relative humidity to set the charge of gas correctly which would result in a "correct pressure " reading. The method most commonly used is a "super heat" method. Here a sling is swirled thru the air and the RH of the air is determined. Next, the exit air from the air blower inside the house is determined. Along with the outside and inside air temps. Then and only then, a chart inside the cabinet of the AC or heat pump is read to find the correct charge pressure. Without taking any of these needed measurements, no pressure reading can be determined. What is happening nation wide is the charging of these new high efficiency units is being done incorrectly, and given that the efficiency numbers that people paid so much for to get (the SEER) are no where near reached. Ive yet to see a service tech ever properly charge a system NEVER ever saw it done. If you want to find out exactly how to charge an AC and what pressures your system is required to have for a given temps and given RH. get a manual and read it as that is a very good way to learn about it so you would never be fooled. X Trane Engineer.3. Metal Halide vs High Pressure Sodium for plants?Be careful as these lamps generate a lot of heat. You will need some sort of ventilation to avoid overheating the plants. Keep in mind law enforcement agencies look for thermal signatures to find illegal pot production.4. Easy questions about weather?! Ten points!?Atmospheric pressure at the Earth's surface is one of the keys to weather, which is one reason weather maps feature H's and L's, representing areas of high and low air pressure. High and low pressure areas are important because they affect the weather. The weather maps, such as those on television, show what is happening at the Earth's surface, and that's what we are talking about here. As the name says, a "high" is an area where the air's pressure is higher than the pressure of the surrounding air. A "low' is where it's lower. Meteorologists do not have any particular number that divides high from low pressure; it's the relative differences that count. The pressure is high at the surface where air is slowly descending - much too slowly to feel. And, this is going on over a large area, maybe a few hundred square miles. As air descends, it warms, which inhibits the formation of clouds. This is why high pressure is generally - but not quite always - associated with good weather. The air that descends in high-pressure areas has to get to high altitudes in some way, and its done by rising in areas where the pressure at the surface is low. As air rises it cools. As the air cools, the humidity in it begins to condense into tiny drops of water, or if it's cold enough, into tiny ice crystals. If there's enough water or ice, rain or snow begin to fall. This is why low pressure is associated with bad weather. As shown in the graphic above, the air descending in high pressure flows out in a clockwise spiral in the Northern Hemisphere. Air flowing into an area of low pressure rises, making a counterclockwise spiral on the way in.
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